Setting Out from Fort William: The Start of an Epic Journey
As dawn breaks in Fort William, a soft veil of mist clings to the mighty shoulders of Ben Nevis, Britain’s highest peak. There is a gentle hush over the town, broken only by the distant call of a curlew and the faint stirrings of locals opening their shutters. This is where the Great Glen Way begins—a path steeped in legend and natural beauty, inviting walkers to journey deep into the heart of the Highlands. The air here carries a distinctive tang: wild heather, cool loch water, and the lingering echoes of ancient footsteps. Fort William itself hums with quiet anticipation. Cafés open early for those embarking on the trail, serving up hearty breakfasts and mugs of strong tea—British staples for a day’s adventure. The old stone buildings stand as silent witnesses to centuries of travellers who have set out from this very place, hearts full of hope and curiosity. As you shoulder your pack and take your first steps along the canal towpath, there is a sense that you are not just walking a route, but slipping into a living story written in earth and sky. Each breath feels crisp and purposeful, each footfall grounding you in both history and the wild promise of what lies ahead. The Great Glen stretches before you—a green corridor through Scotland’s soul, waiting to reveal its secrets one stride at a time.
2. Walking the Tranquil Shores of Loch Lochy and Loch Oich
Stepping out from Fort William, the Great Glen Way gently guides you along the serene fringes of Loch Lochy and Loch Oich. Here, the path becomes a quiet companion, tracing the glassy water’s edge where reflections of ancient Caledonian pines dance and shimmer beneath ever-changing Scottish skies. This stretch is alive with the soft symphony of nature—curlews call across open water, their cries echoing through the hush, while gentle ripples lap against pebbled shores.
It is along these mirror-like lochs that the true magic of the Highlands is revealed. The air carries a fresh, earthy scent after rain; shafts of sunlight filter through branches, painting shifting patterns on the ground. Every footstep brings encounters with nature’s shy dwellers—roe deer slipping between moss-laden trunks, red squirrels darting in a flurry of russet, and the occasional flash of a kingfisher skimming over still water.
Wildlife Encounters Along the Way
| Wildlife | Where to Spot | Best Time |
|---|---|---|
| Curlew | Lochside marshes | Early morning or dusk |
| Roe Deer | Woodland edges | Dawn or late afternoon |
| Red Squirrel | Pine forests near Invergarry | Daytime, especially quiet stretches |
| Kingfisher | River mouths and loch inlets | Sunny days after rain |
A Walk Through Living History
The landscape whispers tales from centuries past—ancient woodlands stand as silent witnesses to history, their roots entwined with stories of clans and travellers who once journeyed these same paths. As you wander under dappled light, every stone and fern seems to hold a fragment of memory, connecting modern walkers to generations gone by.
Treading Softly Beside Still Waters
This section of the Great Glen Way offers more than scenery—it invites reflection. With each step alongside the peaceful waters of Loch Lochy and Loch Oich, time seems to slow. The world narrows to birdcall, breeze, and the rhythmic crunch of boots on gravel—a reminder that in Scotland’s wild heart, beauty reveals itself quietly to those who walk with patience and wonder.
3. Clachnaharry and Highland Villages: Heartfelt Encounters
As you wander further along the Great Glen Way, the path weaves through a tapestry of Highland villages, each one a gentle embrace of Scotland’s storied heart. The quiet lanes of Gairlochy beckon with their whitewashed cottages and gardens humming with bees; here, time seems to soften, inviting you to pause. Stop in at a local café—a steaming mug of tea or a strong coffee awaits, often served with a slice of homemade shortbread. The friendly banter drifts across tables as strangers become companions, sharing tales from the trail or news of distant weather on Ben Nevis.
Invergarry unfolds next, nestled by the River Garry beneath ancient pine forests. It’s a place where children wave from school gates and elders gather on stone benches to watch the day unfold. Pause beneath the shadow of the old church spire, its bells marking the passing hours in a rhythm as steady as your own footsteps. There is something profoundly grounding in these moments—when you witness daily Highland life continuing much as it has for generations, shaped by land and sky and tradition.
Further on, other hamlets flicker into view—each a haven for weary walkers. In these villages, hospitality is more than custom; it is kinship made tangible. Perhaps you’ll share a picnic bench with fellow travellers, swapping stories over sausage rolls or thick slices of Dundee cake. Perhaps you’ll simply linger by the water’s edge, watching fishermen mend their nets as gulls wheel overhead. These heartfelt encounters are stitched into the fabric of your journey, turning miles into memories and strangers into friends beneath the ever-watchful gaze of Highland hills.
4. The Calvinist Canals: Stories Along the Caledonian Waterway
Walking the Great Glen Way, you find yourself drawn ever closer to the slow, contemplative flow of the Caledonian Canal. This waterway, carved through the Scottish Highlands in the early 19th century by Thomas Telford, is more than a feat of engineering; it’s a living artery pulsing with history and myth. As you stroll beside its banks, the steady rise and fall of the canal locks become a gentle metronome, their ironwork and stone echoing with tales of ambition, hardship, and spectral figures from days gone by.
There is an almost reverent hush here—perhaps a nod to the canal’s Calvinist heritage—where once stern-faced barge captains navigated laden vessels between Loch Linnhe and the Moray Firth. Locals still speak of ghostly bargemen glimpsed at dawn or dusk, their voices carried on the Highland breeze, mingling with the call of curlews over the water. Pause awhile at one of the lock gates; watch as pleasure boats glide silently past under brooding skies, their reflections rippling like old memories across the surface.
The canal-side villages each have their own stories etched into towpaths and tavern walls. From Gairlochy’s sleepy moorings to Fort Augustus’ bustling locks, every stop invites curiosity. Below is a table highlighting some notable points along this storied waterway:
| Location | Notable Features | Stories & Legends |
|---|---|---|
| Gairlochy | Historic swing bridge, peaceful moorings | Tales of wartime engineers and local folklore |
| Laggan Locks | Floating hotel, lush woodland trails | Sightings of spectral barge lights on misty nights |
| Fort Augustus | Cascading staircase of locks, lively village atmosphere | Legends of phantom lock-keepers guiding lost boats |
| Kilchuimen | Tranquil loch views, ancient burial grounds nearby | Murmurs of druidic rituals beneath moonlit skies |
The weather here can shift from gentle drizzle to sudden shafts of sunlight breaking through low clouds—a drama played out above still waters. Each moment spent beside this canal offers a quiet invitation: listen closely to the wind in the reeds and you might just catch an echo from another time.
5. Ascending Through Ancient Forests and Open Moorland
As you continue along the Great Glen Way, the landscape subtly transforms. The well-trodden path leaves the gentle banks of lochs behind, leading you into shaded forests where dappled sunlight plays upon carpets of bluebells. Each footstep stirs the earthy aroma of peat and pine, a scent that is uniquely Highland, earthy and invigorating in equal measure.
A Symphony of Nature’s Sights and Sounds
The air is alive with birdsong as you ascend between ancient trunks, their moss-clad roots weaving through the undergrowth. Occasionally, a rustle betrays the presence of a Highland hare, its white tail flashing as it darts across your path before melting into the green depths. The forest feels timeless here, as though these trees have watched over travellers for centuries.
Emerging Onto Wild Moorland
Soon, the sheltering woods give way to open moorland—a vast expanse swept by wind and sky. Heather and gorse cloak the ground in shifting hues, while distant glens unfurl beneath a ceiling of cloud and sun. The silence is profound; only your footsteps disturb the peace, and even they are muffled by soft moss and springy turf.
The Heartbeat of the Highlands
There is something almost spiritual in this solitude. The moor breathes with history, each gust carrying tales of clans and wanderers who crossed these hills long ago. Here, alone but not lonely, you sense the heartbeat of Scotland itself—steadfast, wild, and enduring.
The journey from shadowed woodland to open moor is more than a physical climb; it’s a passage into the very soul of the Highlands. Every scented breeze and fleeting hare becomes part of your own story along the Great Glen Way.
6. Arrival at Inverness: Reflections at the River Ness
Draw near to Inverness, the so-called ‘Capital of the Highlands’, and a hush seems to settle over both land and traveller. The final miles of the Great Glen Way are bathed in a golden light as dusk unfurls its gentle veil. With every step along the banks of the River Ness, a sense of culmination stirs within, mingled with the quiet pride of a journey well-walked.
The Last Footfalls
Your boots crunch softly upon gravel and grass, fatigue woven into every sinew yet countered by an irrepressible joy. The city’s spires emerge ahead, but here beside the water, time slows. The air holds the scent of moss and river spray, while swans glide silently past—familiar companions since Loch Lochy and beyond.
Companionship and Solitude
With each eddy and swirl of the River Ness, memories rise: laughter shared on forest tracks, quiet moments beneath ancient pines, and solitary stretches where only your thoughts kept company. Friendships forged under Highland skies feel enduring, as if bound by heather roots and mountain mist.
The Soul of Scotland
The landscape has given generously—open moorland vistas, brooding lochs, wildflowers braving the wind. Now, as city lights begin to twinkle, you pause. Here is gratitude for solitude found and camaraderie cherished; here is awe for a land that reveals itself slowly, inviting you into its story.
A New Chapter Begins
As dusk deepens over Inverness and the last ripples catch fading light, you realise that this journey lingers long after your boots are unlaced. The Great Glen Way has left its mark: a thread woven through memory and heart—a reminder that sometimes, the truest treasures are found on foot, with open eyes and a willing spirit.
